Quixotic

Blackberry Crumble Cake

I invented this cake the afternoon of my youngest son's birth. It went in the oven, and two and a half hours later we had reason to celebrate. He was born at home, attended by two midwives. It's reminiscent of a coffee cake from childhood.

INGREDIENTS:

9 - 10" springform pan, the bottom lined with parchment paper and the sides oiled.

Fruit of choice in season: blackberries, raspberries, blueberries, and in the fall, diced apple and pear.

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

3/4 cup maple syrup

2 free range eggs

1 tsp. vanilla

1/2 cup goat yogurt (or your choice)

2 cups whole wheat pastry flour

1 tsp. baking powder

dash of baking soda

dash of sea salt

 

TOPPING:

1/2 cup chopped walnut

1/2 tsp cardamon

1/2 tsp cinnamon

2 tbsp olive oil

1/3 to 1/2 cup maple syrup

 

DIRECTIONS:

Mix in a mixer, or by hand, the wet ingredients. Add the dry, and continue mixing. Spoon cake in pan. Set fruit across the top. Spoon the nut and maple mixer the surface.

Bake at 375 degrees for 40 minutes or so until a knife inserted is dry. 350 degrees if in a convection oven.

Garden Pesto

Pesto works with any fresh garden herbs or a combination of, and why use pine nuts when walnuts are just as good or better. I invent a slightly different version of pesto every time I make it because there is no 'one way.' This recipe was last night's combo from the early herb garden where the basil is still young, the parsley well underway, and the spinach smiling.

Ingredients:

Parsley
Genovese Basil
Lemon Basil
Spinach 
Garlic - one head
Walnuts - minced
Parmesan cheese - grated
Sea salt
Extra virgin olive oil
Fresh ground black pepper

I used a mezzaluna, one chef's knife, and a hand-held stand grater. A mezzaluna was invented to mince herbs, the gently rocking motion does a fine job, as good as any prep machine invented. Experiment—I used a handful of basil, a greater quantity of parsley, and a few large spinach leaves. Garlic, we like it heavy. Parmesan, to suit your taste and the value of the other ingredients. Walnuts, I think I used about 1 cup. Olive oil, buy the best and use liberally. Freeze what you don't need tonight. There's nothing like a jar of homemade garden pesto from the freezer—you can't go wrong. 

Chilled Green Summer Soup

You only need a blender, and the time in advance to chill before serving. I could eat this one straight across summer. Serves 6-8

INGREDIENTS

3 cucumber
3 avocado
3 scallions
Goat chèvre
Zest and juice of one lemon
Fresh mint, and or chives
Herbamare or Trocomare by Vogel, or sea salt
Fresh ground pepper
Extra virgin olive oil

DIRECTIONS

1. In a blender add peeled cucumber chunks, (reserve 1/4 of a cucumber—diced—for garnish), avocado, chopped scallion, 6 oz. chèvre, and 8 oz. cold water. If too thick, add more water.
2. Blend.
3. Place soup in a covered bowl or ceramic pot, add lemon juice and zest, Herbamare and pepper, stir and refrigerate.
4. Before serving drizzle olive oil across the top, garnish bowls with diced cucumber, and a chiffonade of mint.

Spring Green Drink

This is a green salad and fruit salad in one. I am able to make it until lunch on one tall glass which surprised me.

Ingredients:

2.5 cups chopped kale (wash well, repeat)
1 large apple, cored but not peeled and cut into chunks
1 avocado
1 cup parsley
1 lemon squeezed
1/2 bag frozen mango chunks (Woodstock Farms)
6 cups water

Partially thaw your mango first, then add all to blender and purée until smooth. Serves four.  I am blending in a WARING commercial blender with a 64 oz stainless steel carafe. After doing my research on blenders, I purchased this 1.5 horsepower workhorse no-frills model and do not miss seeing the contents whirl.

Peach and Sicilian Orange Tart with Almond Crust

I make all my desserts with maple syrup and extra virgin olive oil, and or goat butter. Occassionally I use raw honey. This tart is a sensual pleasure. I make it with the fruit of the season. The crust can be varied with almonds, walnuts or hazelnuts.

Shown below, pear with Sicilian orange glaze.

 

 

And again, made in summer with peach and mint chiffonade.

 

 

 

INGREDIENTS:

 

- French Tart Pan as shown (10")

- Fresh local or organic pears or peaches, count is dependent on the size of your tart pan. My guess about 5-6 pears...

- 1 8oz jar of Bionaturae Sicilian Orange Jam (no added sugar.)

- Fresh mint leaves (garnish on peach)

- 3/4 cup almonds (not blanched)
Crust:

- 3 cups whole wheat pastry flour

- 1 egg

- 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil - or 2 sticks goat butter  (this tart was half oil and half butter, it works just as well straight olive oil)

- 1 tbsp. vanilla

- dash sea salt

- 1/3 cup maple syrup 
Glaze:
- 1 8oz jar of Bionaturae Sicilian Orange Jam (no added sugar.)

- 1/3 cup maple syrup 

- 1/2 cup orange juice
- Grand Marnier 

 

DIRECTIONS:

 
Crust:

1. Chop fine 3/4 cup almonds (walnuts or hazelenuts).

2. Mix together the egg, olive oil, vanilla and 1/3 cup maple syrup.

3. Add the ground nuts, flour, and sea salt. Blend all well. It will form a rough crumbly ball of dough. Press it together into a ball.

4. Wrap with natural wax paper and set in fridge for 30 min. Wash your fruit slicing peaches in crescents. Set aside. (If using pears—you will lay cored halves on crust and slice thin diagonally before baking.)

5. Set oven to 350 degrees. Coat tart pan with olive oil.

6. Remove dough and place it in the center of your tart pan. Use your fingers and palms to break it into chunks that you evenly press into the tart pan form. Pushing it up and into the scalloped edges of the tart pan creating a nice even crust with a flat top at outer edge.

7. Prick a few fork holes in tart crust before baking without the filling for 10 minutes.

8. Remove from oven but leave oven ON because the tart is going back in.

9. Working in a circular pattern lay your fresh fruit on the crust overlapping to do so as needed.

10. Place  Sicilian Orange Jam in a saucepan with the 1/3 cup maple, a shot glass of Grand Marnier liquer and orange juice, adding a spot of juice as needed to thin mixing together to create the glaze. Heat slowly until blended. 

11. Pour and spoon glaze across peaches.

12. Place tart back in 350 degree oven for 30 min or until the crust is golden brown. 

13. Remove and cool in pan on rack. When cool take washed mint leaves and slice them thinly by hand to create the mint chiffonade that you sprinkle across the cooled tart.

14. The glaze will set-up as it cools.

  

 

I make all my desserts with maple syrup and extra virgin olive oil, and or goat butter. Occassionally I use raw honey. This tart is a sensual pleasure. I make it with the fruit of the season. The crust can be varied with almonds, walnuts or hazelnuts.

Shown below, pear with Sicilian orange glaze.

 

 

And again, made in summer with peach and mint chiffonade.

 

 

 

INGREDIENTS:

 

- French Tart Pan as shown (10")

- Fresh local or organic pears or peaches, count is dependent on the size of your tart pan. My guess about 5-6 pears...

- 1 8oz jar of Bionaturae Sicilian Orange Jam (no added sugar.)

- Fresh mint leaves (garnish on peach)

- 3/4 cup almonds (not blanched)
Crust:

- 3 cups whole wheat pastry flour

- 1 egg

- 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil - or 2 sticks goat butter  (this tart was half oil and half butter, it works just as well straight olive oil)

- 1 tbsp. vanilla

- dash sea salt

- 1/3 cup maple syrup 
Glaze:
- 1 8oz jar of Bionaturae Sicilian Orange Jam (no added sugar.)

- 1/3 cup maple syrup 

- 1/2 cup orange juice
- Grand Marnier 

 

DIRECTIONS:

 
Crust:

1. Chop fine 3/4 cup almonds (walnuts or hazelenuts).

2. Mix together the egg, olive oil, vanilla and 1/3 cup maple syrup.

3. Add the ground nuts, flour, and sea salt. Blend all well. It will form a rough crumbly ball of dough. Press it together into a ball.

4. Wrap with natural wax paper and set in fridge for 30 min. Wash your fruit slicing peaches in crescents. Set aside. (If using pears—you will lay cored halves on crust and slice thin diagonally before baking.)

5. Set oven to 350 degrees. Coat tart pan with olive oil.

6. Remove dough and place it in the center of your tart pan. Use your fingers and palms to break it into chunks that you evenly press into the tart pan form. Pushing it up and into the scalloped edges of the tart pan creating a nice even crust with a flat top at outer edge.

7. Prick a few fork holes in tart crust before baking without the filling for 10 minutes.

8. Remove from oven but leave oven ON because the tart is going back in.

9. Working in a circular pattern lay your fresh fruit on the crust overlapping to do so as needed.

10. Place  Sicilian Orange Jam in a saucepan with the 1/3 cup maple, a shot glass of Grand Marnier liquer and orange juice, adding a spot of juice as needed to thin mixing together to create the glaze. Heat slowly until blended. 

11. Pour and spoon glaze across peaches.

12. Place tart back in 350 degree oven for 30 min or until the crust is golden brown. 

13. Remove and cool in pan on rack. When cool take washed mint leaves and slice them thinly by hand to create the mint chiffonade that you sprinkle across the cooled tart.

14. The glaze will set-up as it cools.

  

 

Zuppa di Pomodoro—Tomato Soup

Colorful beauty like a sunset in winter, this is a simple recipe. Tuscans make one similar called Zuppa Toscana by adding bread cubes and white wine. 

Ingredients

1 large onion (quartered is fine/ the soup gets blended
4-5 garlic cloves (pressed)
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 tsp. Harissa powder
1 tbsp. tomato paste
1 tsp. Black olive spread (I use Divina Organic Kalamata Spread/ a pantry staple)
24 oz. jar Tomato crushed or strained (I like Bionaturae)
32 oz. Vegetable broth/ or chicken broth (I use Pacific Foods)
3 bay leafs
sea salt
1 strip kombu (about 2" strip)—Kombu (Maine Coast Sea Vegetables) is a seaweed I add to all sauces and soups thus infusing what I am making with the sea's rich minerals and benefits. Kombu also softens beans while cooking and enhances flavor. You use less sea salt because of it. 

Directions

1. Saute onions and garlic (if you don't own a garlic press then chop coarsley) in olive oil.
2. Add the rest of the ingredients and simmer 45 minutes. I actually place all my soup pots in the oven at 350 degrees for the same duration, rather than cooking them stove top. A trait that stems from having an AGA when the children were young. 
3. Simmer on low, or pop an oven proof soup pot in the oven as I do, using my Emile Henry Dutch Oven or Le Creuset. 
4. Remove bay leafs, and kombu. Let cool a bit before blending.
5. Dress with fresh ground pepper, olive oil and a drizzle of goat kefir, or dollop of chèvre. Thin with water if too thick, heat and serve.
   
   
   
   
   This is an action shot of me in in my previous kitchen. I am wearing my face of concentration, serving red sauce over polenta. It's a terribly blurred image but it evokes the energy of real life in the kitchen!

Florentine Gnocchi di Spinaci

 

In the arms of Nonna! It was a wonderful place to be. Great-grandmothers exist to make generations feel special. Nonna was the Mediterranean infused in one artistic soul. She made the dress she wore and cooked with joy to honor her Tuscan heritage. She was someone you just wanted to be around.

Gnocchi made with potato are the classic that comes to mind. My version of a Florentine recipe uses whole wheat flour, goat chèvre (not ricotta), spinach, freshly grated nutmeg, fresh mint, sage and I've added Manchego sheep cheese. I have a craving for these any day of the week.

 

Serves four / makes forty gnocchi

 

INGREDIENTS

2 cup goat chévre

1 cup grated Manchego sheep cheese

1 cup fresh grated Regiano Parmesan

1 BIG bunch fresh spinach

1 bunch fresh mint (or twelve leaves)

1 bunch fresh sage (or twelve leaves)

4 egg yolks

4 tbsp butter (optional/ you can use all olive oil as well)

1 cup whole wheat pastry flour

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Freshly ground pepper

Sea salt

Gnocchi prepped and waiting to go in the pot.

 

DIRECTIONS

1. Wash fresh spinach leaves removing the extra stems. Steam in pot with water and drain well, pressing the water out with the back of a wooden spoon. Chop spinach. Place in a mortar and pestle and work until crushed and purée like. Set aside in a large mixing bowl.

 

2. ADD:

2/3 cup of total flour (reserving the 1/3 for dusting your chopping block surface where you will lay out the gnocchi to air briefly before cooking).

1 cup grated Manchego cheese

4 egg yolks

Chévre

Chopped fresh mint

Freshly grated nutmeg

Freshly ground pepper and sea salt

MIX all well by hand until thoroughly combined. Dust your work surface with remaining flour if you have not already. Using two baby sized spoons, shape the mixture into an oval shape and lay on floured surface. I used my dusted hands for the final shaping rolling lightly at ends.

 

3. Bring a pot of water to boil.

 

4. Set your 4 tbsp butter, and equal or better, amount of olive oil in a sauté pan on medium heat—watching so it doesn't burn. Wash and dry your sage leaves placing them into the hot butter/ oil mix and let cook until just starting to fry, it takes about three minutes for the sage if your heat is right. Leave the sage butter/oil on low heat. You will add the gnocchi to this pan after they cook.

 

5. Add gnocchi in two batches to the GENTLY boiling water. Slip the gnocchi into the water by hand. When they rise to the top surface they are ready. With a slotted spoon remove them and lay them in your warm sage oil.

 

6. Repeat with second batch.

 

To serve dress with grated fresh parmesan. And fresh pepper. Ecco la!

Mireille Guiliano's Magical French Leek Fast

This is the touted Magical Leek Soup of French author Mireille Guiliano. Mireille was spokesperson for Veuve Clicquot for twenty years. I haven't found the dedication to adhere to the French tradition of fasting quarterly but have managed to accomplish it twice a year. My fast begins on a Saturday morning and concludes with a light dinner Sunday evening. The one thing Mireille reminds readers to remember is that one must give up your exercise routine—and kick back. Taking the fast with a friend or family member can be memorable. My daughter Ming, then a teenager, and I did so once and couldn't stop laughing and teasing each other about all the things we'd like to eat. What I experience with the fast is clarity. It feels as though the blood pumping through my veins is brighter and happier, maybe it is. Breaking the fast with a dinner of wild salmon, couscous, asparagus and cherry tomatoes, my sensory perceptions are renewed.

Blue-green leeks are the nationale symbol of Wales. King Cadwallder of Gwynedd, in AD 640 asked his men to wear leeks in their hats to battle, this way they would not be recognized as Saxons. Leeks are a staple winter vegetable dating from the Middle Ages. Rich in flavonoids they belong to the Allium family and are related to onions and garlic. 

Directions (for one)

2 pounds of leeks (I bought a big bunch of about 15 medium sized leeks)
lemon
parsley

1.Trim off the dark green stalks, leaving white and light green ends only. Wash well. Chop leeks in rounds.
2. Add to a pot and cover with enough water to give you one cup of broth every three hours for the duration of your fast.
3. Bring to a boil and simmer about 20- 30 minutes.
4. Drink lots of water throughout the day interspersed with your leek broth. Mireille says to eat the leeks with the broth as you like. She also suggests dressing your serving with fresh pepper, sea salt, minced parsley and drops of olive oil as desired.

This is what you have to look forward to if you are so inclined. The wild salmon is served alongside a golden beet and spinach chèvre salad.

On the art of a Quiche

Our chidren knew the kitchen was home. Here's one for my lovely young people just learning to cook and my middle aged bachelor friends. A quiche feeds you for a few days and seldom disappoints. I always say, don't eat it cold, brown it in a pan with olive oil, turning the edges, and reawaken the flavors.

Ingredients

Crust:

2 cups WW pastry flour
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 cup cold H2O
Sea salt

Filling:

5 eggs whisked
6 oz. chèvre
one small to medium onion/ or shallotminced
Fresh spinach washed and dried
Sea salt
Fresh pepper

Directions

Start with the crust. We're going to pop it in the fridge to chill while the filling is prepped. Once you get the hang of it you can whip up the whole thing in about 45 minutes and get a bath in while it bakes for dinner.

1. Using a Kithcne aid mixer with dough hook, or mixing bowl by hand, combine flour, sea slat and oil, adding the cold water. Mixing lightly, it will seem too wet at first then grab together forming a dough ball. If you sense it is too wet throw a little more flour—wrap with parchment and place in the fridge.
2. Set oven to 350 degrees
3. Sauté minced onion in olive oil with a dash of sea salt. After washing spinach and removing most of the water (a little is good) add spinach to onions / cover and steam a bit untilwilted but still bright green.
4. Whisk eggs and crumble the chèvre into bowl. Set aside.
5. With a wood rolling pin on a floured surface, or simply by using the parchment it was wrapped in as your surface—roll out gently. Approximating the size of your pie plate. Hold the pie dish over your circle and eye it. 
6. You can  now lift the paper and directly flip the dough over onto the pie plate. If you're working on a floured surface fold gently in half dusting top with flour and lift.
7. Crimp and fold down the dough along the edge of the dish. If oversized, fold under and use your fingers to wed the two. Mine always extends and I fold it in giving a thicker crust. Mix all ingedients together and add filling to pie dish.
8. Bake in center of oven for 35-40 minutes till golden.

Sometimes I put herbed bread crumbs across the top with olive oil before baking, if I'm feeling fancy.

Panforte—a classic Italian Christmas

Panforte improves with time. Directions call for letting it sit in your refrigerator for a week or two allowing the flavors to blend and enrichen. 

Panforte is a culinary jewel of Siena, dating back to the 13th century. The original recipe discovered on parchment dated 7th Febrario, 1205 called the recipe "Pan Melato," or honey bread of pepper and honey. The addition of multiple spices was added at later dates. My version is made with whole grains, raw honey, dried fruits and nuts. I support organics or locally grown. I like to think this version reflects the original—as grains were whole and honey was raw. Panforte is the quintessential "whole foods" sweet treat. Italians, by constitution, leave things in their natural state and don't look for ways to mess them up. 

INGREDIENTS

2 8” ring form pans (or pie plates if you have none). Line the bottoms of the pans with parchment paper cut to fit. Butter or use olive oil on the sides of the pans and across top of the parchment. (Makes 2)

300-degree oven

Ingredients

 ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil (or butter if you prefer)
1 cup raw honey
3/4 cup hazelnuts / 3/4 cup almonds (roasted together before hand)
1.5 cup Turkish dried apricots
1.5 cup Calimyrna dried figs
2 tbsp. orange peel zest
2 tbsp. lemon peel zest
¾ cup whole-wheat pastry flour
¾ cup carob powder
1.5 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. ground cloves
1 tsp. fresh grated nutmeg
Dash of fresh ground pepper
1 tsp. vanilla
Orange flavor oil/ or splash of Grand Marnier
12 ounces semisweet dark baker’s chocolate

(6 ounces for cake/ melted slowly by adding 1-2 tbsp. water stove top AND reserve 6 ounces semisweet dark baker’s chocolate to be melted for topping after Panforte cools)

Directions

1. Mix dry ingredients.
2. Chop dried fruit/ leave nuts whole and roast.
3. Zest lemon and orange/ you can use one or the other as well.
4. Melt 6 oz. baker’s chocolate.
5. Warm honey lightly, melting butter with honey.
6. Using a wooden spoon mix by hand. Dough will be stiff. Spoon and press into prepared pans. It will lay thin across pans.
7. Bake 25-30 minutes.
8. After cooling, spread melted remaining 6 oz. dark chocolate across the top. Leave to cool and harden.
9. Serve directly or wrap with parchment and place in knotted plastic bags in fridge for up to 2 weeks. I like to serve one at Christmas and save one for New Year’s.

Ecco la—